Christmas Around the Corner

Tonight is our last night in Warsaw prior to joining the family back in Charlotte for the Christmas holidays. Most of our children were able to rendezvous with us for a Family Christmas gathering in North Carolina. Lauren and Aaron are in the middle of closing on a new home in Oregon and could not make it out. They visited us in Warsaw last month so we were able to catch up with them recently. We will miss them though.

We wanted to get out another posting before leaving on our flight early tomorrow morning. So we spent this evening on one last stroll through our neighborhood in Warsaw. We couldn't help but enjoy the new snow which makes our Old Town District such a beautiful setting for this holy season. The lights, the trees, the churches all seem to paint a peaceful picture worthy of any postcard. Even our old camera was able to record a portion of the scene.

A few blocks down our street, you see the NEW town oak tree. For eight months out of the year this area is filled with bustling crowds and sidewalk cafes with colorful umbrellas. Many people can't wait for those seasons to return.

But on evenings like this one, I'm perfectly content. The bleakness of winter is lost on me when I see the images that we just encountered around the corner from our apartment.

In OLD town square (just a few blocks down our street) a number of vendors have set up shop selling everything from cheese, sausages, handicrafts, Pottery and every thing in between. The Blue Christmas tree is more striking in person. We have completed our Christmas shopping in these little shops.

The old Town Square is framed by the colorful old shops that blend into the background.

These shanty town vendors are a hearty lot. I don't know how they can remain out in the cold for very long.

The final view of the old town square as we head back to the warmth of our apartment. We shall see it again in January when weather gets really cold.

Walking back down our street, the light was just perfect to catch this beautiful church. All the churches seem to have a special appeal.

The final look back as we approach the apartment. One of these days we'll have to discuss the significance of the church in the background.

December in Warsaw

This is taken inside Blue City, a mall we like to shop at because it contains our favorite grocery store, Piotr i Pawel. The mall has potential for growth.

When it opened the developers probably anticipated more stores coming to the mall, but because of the economy it's not filled to capacity. Still a nice place to wander around, especially with the holiday decorations.

In the Old Town Square is this tree and fountain. Pictures not as good as in real life. Night-time photography still a bit of challenge with this camera.

Although not seen in this picture, the square is filled with booths where entrepreneurs, braving cool outdoor weather both during the day and evening, display their merchandise throughout December.

We enjoyed some grilled smoked cheese with a bit of cranberry compote on top. Sounds strange, but tastes quite delicious. Just a few bites but a satisfying way to spend 3 zlotes.

Lanterns across the street in New Town. We walked under the lights up since around the third week in November anticipating when they would be lit.

Heard we missed a big tree-lighting ceremony on the first Sunday in December. Since then we've seen them lit each time we stroll down to Stary Miasto in search or food, gifts or just to enjoy the scenery.

Further down the street where we live (a couple blocks away) in New Town (nowy miasto.) We love the simple white lights which lend an understated elegance to the Christmas season.

This tree located in New Town square was beautiful in autumn. Just as spectacular (or more so at night) with beautiful lights on each branch that must've taken quite a lot of effort to decorate.

In front of the Royal Palace. Even though it was barely above

freezing, there was a plethora of pedestrians taking in the sights.

Last night we heard one lone violinist in front of the palace playing "If I Were a Rich Man," from Fiddler on the Roof. Couldn't resist dropping some coins in his violin case, a pittance to help make his dream come true. Always easier to pay for services, especially when musicians contribute to the ambiance with heart-felt showmanship.

Roadtrip to Southern Poland and Prague

A couple of weeks ago we had a wonderful visit with our daughter Lauren and Aaron (her husband.) who flew in from Salt Lake City and after seeing Old Town in Warsaw we went on a whirlwind 5-day trip with them to Krakow, Auschwitz and Prague.

We enjoyed two nights in Krakow at a Bed and Breakfast, first visiting a Salt Mine that was amazing! David and I were just hoping for something to do that would get us out of the rain. But we had no idea what a treat we were in for when we first climbed down staircase after staircase after staircase. Lauren (our trip planner) had researched it and had a better idea, although it exceeded her expectations.

You can read about the Wieliczka Salt Mine online. We learned that it has been in operation for 900 years. Once, it was one of the “world's biggest and most profitable industrial establishments when common salt was commercially a medieval equivalent of today's oil.” Since the mid-18th century Krakow's Wieliczka Salt Mine has become increasingly a tourist attraction. For years David's saying "back to the salt mines," did not conjure the images we now have in mind. We were amazed by the many tunnels and art-work carved in the walls and chambers of the mine.

This picture was taken by David a week before the kids arrived. Located 20 minutes from where we live, Wilanow was built for Jan Sobieski (r. 1674-96), Poland's heroic monarch. Sobieski led the Catholic Allies in the liberation of Vienna from the Turks in 1683. Touring through this palace with Lauren and Aaron the day after we returned from our trip, I'm sure David will want to return for an indoor tour.

We loved the beautiful city Prague and enjoyed visiting a museum and the Old City Center there. It seems that all of the ancient cities of Central Europe have an "old town".

The magnificent churches and architecture spanning hundreds of years give each "old town" its distinctive appeal. It's fun to speculate on the lives that have walked the streets and wonder how each generation has left its mark to all that we now enjoy.

Even though we are experiencing these cities in the blustery fall or pre winter season, we managed to find a great deal of life and activity around every corner. Even though we were surrounded by many other tourists, we could sense

the unique culture of the local people of Praga. Praga is the Czech Republic spelling for Praque as we know it. It would be well worth a return trip to see the castles and other sites that we had no time to visit on this trip.

Thanks Lauren for being a terrific trip planner--we loved touring castles, the salt mine, eating out and visiting along the way! When we get together over Christmas we'll have to play Favorite Five again adding some elements of our memorable vacation.

A few more pictures on All Saints Day

I loved the glow and warmth created from hundreds of candles left on many of the graves in the cemetery.

How gorgeous the leaves were in full autumn color just before falling. A walk five days later leaves were not just fallen from the trees but raked into piles, showing much effort given in taking care of the cemetery. Kind of those leaves to stay on the trees for All Saints Day!

All Saints Day

Halloween is barely noticed by Poles in Warsaw. A few pumpkins were lit in restaurants beconing tourists or festive-minded site see-ers like ourselves on October 31. However, the cold, crisp night air didn't detract thousands of Poles from paying respects with lit candles and flowers on November 1, All Saints Day to neighborhood cemeteries. We walked about 4 kilometers from our apartment and back to a large cemetery with the Stuckis. Prior to our late night trek, they showed us how to make gnochi (amazing Italian potato noodle fare coated in gorgonzola, butter and pecans--delicious! Paula Dean's never made anything better!) What could be better than memories of that delicious meal? Nothing, but our friends' photos (our camera was out of juice) which they were kind enough to share with us provide equally wonderful mementos of that Polish holiday.

On the way to the cemetery we passed the Monument for the Fallen and Murdered in the East. It commemorates all the victims of the Soviets who after they had invaded Poland in 1939, deported the population of Eastern Poland to Gulags and killed about 30 000 P.O.Ws.

The bronze cast monument includes a piece of a railway track and a wagon similar to those used by the Soviets for deportations.

Many westerners are only aware of the cruelty of the Nazi occupation in Poland. The Poles, however, are very mindful of the extreme conditions that existed thoughout history under the occupying forces of the former Soviet Union. Leading up to WWII and by the end of the War, Poland lost more than 7 million people to extreme cruelty. This includes the 3 milliion Polish Jews.

Autumn Comes to Lazienki Park

We finally made it out to Lazienki Park to view the Autumn leaves. Last Sunday we took the camera with us on a chilly walk. After the shneg incident we worried that fall would turn to winter and squash opportunities to enjoy fall colors.

Here's David on his last carefree Sunday. As of today he's serving as a counselor in the Branch Presidency along with President Rob Smith who works at the US Embassy.

Last night we ate at the Smith's house with a few other families. We are getting to know some people in the branch including a "nomadic opera family" whom we feel are like "old friends," especially as 3-year-old Colin called out "Where's my Polish Grandpa?" when David went to sit on the stand in church. Our branch was treated to Brian's vocal and piano talent singing, "I Need Thee Every Hour." We'll blog more about them and the opera house after seeing "The Fall of the House of Usher" in November. Although Ann claims it's not virtuous, lovely, or of good report, we're sure it will be praiseworthy and look forward to that.

We are told that, even in the winter, the park continues to be a great place to retreat and enjoy its natural beauty. The stillness and striking views provide a great place to relax in spite of the temperature extremes of the Warsaw Winter.

These photos provide you with a small glimpse of the serenity encountered in our favorite place to visit in the city of Warsaw.

Speaking of striking views - Lisa found it necessary to strike one from my view.

Warszawa Gets Shnegged

Looked out the window to a white winter scene this morning--what happened to fall? Notice in the picture taken from our mieszkanie window that some leaves haven't turned colors yet! It has snowed continuously (although not sticking much) all day.

People at work assured David that this is unusual for this early in the year.

Piotr, the security guy in our complex says it's supposed to snow for two days, then temperatures should get up to 10 degrees (C. of course) I like the word snieg (shneg) which means snow in Polish. It should have an accent above the s, but we don't know how to use Polish alphabet characters.

Shneg sheems to fit the mood of the shurprise shtorm--SHOOT its's too early for Shnow!

Notice the snow on the bear's back at the neighborhood water-well. Here we fill jugs with mineral water for drinking.

Back in Warsaw after a Trip Across the Pond

After four weeks of travel for Lisa and a couple for David, we're back in our Warsaw apartment. Upon our arrival, we quickly noted the change in the season. The leaves are beginning to turn and we are anxious to make a trip to Lazienki Park and enjoy the scenery.

We had no interest in cooking (after the long flight) so we went out to one of the neighborhood restaurants and enjoyed a traditional Polish meal. We suspect that the umbrellas will soon come down and all of the eateries and shops will move indoors. Hopefully, the loss of the outdoor dining will be offset by the warmth inside.

Lisa: Two days have passed while we're adjusting to the time change. David's cooking garlic chicken while I update our blog (a barley, brown rice and mushroom side dish is also simmering, so in case you're wondering I contribute in the kitchen too:)

We had planned to take our camera on an afternoon walk to capture the beautiful autumn leaves from around the city, but it's raining so I settled for making a cup of cocoa and curling up with a book my sister recommended. I'm more than half-way through "The Help," and enjoying it

immensely. The only reason I can put it down from time to time is that it's the only Southern Lit book I brought.

My carefree, minimalist attitude kicked in about the time I started packing for our return trip. Unfortunately, that means we didn't pack an umbrella (and we own about 10 purchased on a hurried trip to Walmart the night before Lauren's wedding.) Also, I forgot to double check where I put my new Poland-purchased pumps, and assumed amongst my full suitcases that I'd packed my favorite black shoes; but unfortunately no, we had to shop at a mall yesterday. Please, no pity though--all malls have grocery stores included--so the dreaded shopping trip was multi-functional!

On the sidewalk outside of our second-story apartment I see dozens of stylish kobietas walking around in boots and I'm sure it's a sign of cold weather to come! Hope we get a chance to snap some photos before autumn's over.

I had a wonderful time visiting sisters, my parents, and all three daughters and son-in-law while in the States. It was great to share in celebrating Adrienne's and then Lindsay's birthdays! We hope to see Nate at Christmas if his job will allow the time off when we return to Charlotte for the Holidays. Next year our return to the States will be less-frequent as we hope to have each kid visit us here during our stay!

David kept busy in Poland before returning to Charlotte and Washington D.C. to get his visa. He made a few "business" trips. Here's a sample of places he visited (and promises to take me

sometime soon:)

David: Yes, it is true, I am able to mix business with pleasure. In one of our trips to the north in the Gdansk area, I was able to visit Historic Malbork Castle and Sopot. Lisa was virtually there as well, as I called her multiple times to let her know all she was missing.

Here are a couple of pictures. I'll have to devote a full blog to this at a later date.

Needless to say the views were breathtaking and the history surrounding this area is astounding. This is one castle where you can get up close and personal. The castle society has done a remarkable job in preservation and restoration of what was the largest castle of its time (1300 -1400)

This is just a small portion of the Castle that you are able to tour.

A Walk Through the Neighborhood - OLD TOWN

Today we took a walk through the streets around our apartment and caught a few sites on the camera to share with you. We spent most of the time going in and out of Amber Shops. Poland has a long history for Amber trading.

Our Street (2 Blocks away)

Old Town Square (Stare Miasto)

Looking Back towards our Street

Pierogi and Salatka for Lunch

Three Weeks in Warsaw

Yes, that's right. We have reached the 3 week mark and we are just settling into our long term apartment. It is very nice and well equipped with all the luxuries of home. We have a spare bath and bedroom in case the children, family or friends make the trip for a visit.

With only a few days in the apartment it is truly starting to feel like home. It's proximity to the Old Town just adds to its charm.

We need to post a few photos from Old Town to help you appreciate the setting. We never seem to have a camera handy when we are walking around. Since we are now "locals" it just would be out character. Anyway, we'll try to get some in the Blog soon.

Lisa and I love evening walks through the Old Town just to take in the architecture and ponder the history. It's fun to walk out the door and down the cobblestone streets to the old town market on the corner just to pick up a liter of mleko or some chlep. (milk or bread). The streets in Old Town are very narrow and limited to pedestrian traffic. From Spring thru the Fall the many restaurants move outside to the streets and set up umbrella dining areas. It's tempting to stop and have a Lody (ice cream) every time we make the trip. So far we have resisted. Well for the most part.

Today, after church, we took an early afternoon walk in Lazienki Park. It is filled with walking paths and old palaces of the old aristocracy. We took in another free Chopin Piano Concert while sitting on a park bench. Old and young alike are drawn to this rather unique setting for a taste of Polish History and Culture. These concerts last from May through September.

It was a balmy 20 degrees (C, of course) Surprising to see roses still in bloom and raspberries and blueberries plenitiful in the grocery stores. We felt a bit of a chill near the end of the concert and felt that fall is in the air.

The Temporary Mieszkanie

In two more days we move to our "permanent" furnished apartment. For the last week we've been in a mieszkani; somewhat of an apartment, somewhat hotel (maid service three times a week.)

Here's a picture of the bed in our our temporary apartment. Who made this bed?

a. David

b. An alien

c. Lisa

d. Maid service

If you guessed d, you're right! What you may not notice is that the decorative pillows on top of the pillows that we sleep on are zipper-side out. Maybe it's been a while since I've shopped at Bed, Bath and Beyond and this is just an example of "beyond" my fashion sense!

Yesterday we visited the Uprising Museum. We gained a greater appreciation of the determination of the Varsovians to persist throughout World War II. We learned of many organized efforts to regain their freedom; first as a Union of Armed Struggle, then the Home Army which operated an underground press as well as planned military retaliation against the Nazis. It was a very moving and memorable museum experience. (Only 5 Zoltys - less than 3 dollars)

Chopin in the Park

Our 1st Sunday was spent in our normal fashion going to church. We enjoyed the 3 hour block of meetings at the Warsaw 1st. Branch. We recognised the melodies of the hymns yet all the conversations were totally lost to us. (David did very well singing the different alphabet sounds and blends, impressing one sister missionary who thought he knew Polish!) Were it not for the missionaries and a number of members who readily jumped in as translators our conversations would have been reduced to just polite smiles and simple greetings.

The early afternoon found us sitting on the grass of historic Lasienki Park. Throughout the summer the park host international pianists and other musicians who play the works of Fredrick Chopin, Poland's most famous composer. The musicians perform under a canopy next to the statue of Chopin. It was fabulous. The open air free concert draws people from throughout Europe.

Lazienki Park is very large and contains the two Palaces of former Kings. The only downside of the Park is the restriction on picnics. It would be a great place to retreat and enjoy a home packed meal and a great book. Books are okay but the food is not. It has to do with some anti-littering ordinance.

Touring the Royal Castle

Upon review of the previous photos, we recognize that we haven't captured the beauty and history of Poland that we have seen thus far. Old Town Warsaw is beautiful and rich with history and charm. The cobblestone streets and vintage shops help bring to life the striking history of Warsaw. You can't appreciate the history of Poland without understanding the long history of Polish Royalty and the life of the nobles. Our first museum visit was to the Royal Castle, with some original construction dating back to the 14th Century. The inside of the castle was filled with tapestries, paintings, sculptures and furnishings throughout the centuries.

Evidence of historical figures cited by Mitchener in his book, "Poland" were found throughout the castle. David, who's finished the book, commentated in tour-guide fashion filling in the gaps where our English brochure was lacking. Great tour! Worth the 15 zlotes (5 dollars). Jan Sobieski, the Poland Liberator of Vienna, was our favorite character whose 3 meter high oil painting adorned one of the main halls.

Lisa was particularly impressed by some of the original artwork found in the Castle. During the 2nd World War the Nazis hauled train loads of treasures out of the Polish castles. Many of the paintings in the Louve were once resident here in Poland. Little by little they are making their way back to Poland such as the Rembrandt painting, "The Girl in the Picture Frame." The old aristocracy of Poland were some of Europe's most ambitious art collectors. In the 17th century Poland was flush with works of the Masters.

Old town is just fun to visit. We love wandering though the cobblestone streets while avoiding all of the tempting places to eat . A must see that just doesn't seem to get stale. Well . . . . what do we know with less than two weeks of experience.

Culture Shock -- Nie

A sister missionary asked if we've experienced culture shock yet yesterday. Before I could open my mouth David replied, "Nie, not at all." True, we look similar as we are Caucasian, and with our friendly "Dzien dobry" greeting who would know that we're completely clueless as to what people are talking about! (well actually everybody who continues the conversation:) Just in case you're wondering, there are a few things I've found to be different; some for the better, some well...you decide.

The two shopping malls we've been to have grocery stores on the bottom floor. This explains why at the Arkadia mall they have slanted ramps near Carrefour, a Fred Meyer style multi-purpose grocery store. We bag the groceries using bags we buy or bring. The second shopping trip I pulled a few out of my purse without the cashier noticing. When she tried to swipe them, I said "mine, mine," sounding like a toddler pointing to my purse. Hey, they're one zeloty a piece--I think I'll learn to recycle! Note to self: look up Polish word for mine.

Traffic lights go from red to yellow to green. This is helpful, especially if you're somewhat new to using a clutch--helpful to have that second and a half to get ready to go! Plus why have that nonessential yellow light? In Charlotte it means speed up if you're close enough--within a block--before the light turns red.

In the furnished apartments we looked at, as well as the temporary short-stay one we're in now, they typically have just a washer in either the bathroom, kitchen or a small separate closet. One apartment had a washer and a dryer. Guess which one we're renting! In our temporary flat we wish we could read the Italian instructions as one load washed for about 90 minutes.

First Week in Warsaw

After a 9 hour flight from Charlotte to Munich and 1 1/2 hour commuter plane from Munich to Warsaw, we safely arrived August 16, 2009, for our first oversees adventure in Poland. Within minutes our cab driver hurried us to our temporary stay in a hotel just across from the famous Palace of Culture and Science, commissioned by Stalin 1955 as an expression of Soviet Realism, is viewed by most Poles as a symbol of oppression. Just outside our hotel room we could stare at vaguely visible people from the 33rd floor of the palace. Were any of those standing from what seems a monument tJo communism thinking that we were staring at them from the Intercontinental Hotel, a monument to capitalism? We did enjoy almost a full week of luxury or at least Lisa did while David worked, lounging about reading James Mitchener's "Poland," swimming or on the treadmill with my biggest decision being water from a pitcher with floating lemon, orange or grapefruit (orange my favorite:) We did spend two afternoons looking for a furnished apartment. Why spend more time (after about the 4th of 10 apartments) Lisa wondered, after all we'll only be in Warsaw 8 months.